Summer 2021

Up the River

Vinišće is 500 years old but unlike many other towns that we have visited it does not have the same well preserved historic buildings. It has a typical Mediterranean feel to it with a few fishing boats, a small convenience shop and several restaurants serving local dishes and the catch of the day.

We went ashore in the evening to try one of the recommended restaurants. We tied Ed & Fred to the shore and also chained them up for extra security. As we were sitting at our waterside table Paul noticed them floating across the bay and out to sea!

Luckily the restaurant owner has a tender and agreed to go and retrieve them for us and bought Ed & Fred safely back. Both the rope and chain had been cut and he told us that if we had tied onto a private mooring (there was no notice/sign indicating that it was private) the owner would just cut it free.

We were so relieved that we had noticed it and that it was rescued, otherwise we would have been swimming back to ZigZag after our night out. Not a great welcome to this town especially at such a quiet time when they need tourists to visit?

The following day we lifted our anchor, along with a few extra kilos of mud from the sea bed, (it is really good holding in this bay!) and continued 13nm up the coast to Rogoznica.

We had a force 3-4 wind behind us and sailed downwind at 5kts with the Genoa only.

Rogoznica is in a bay with over 50km of coastline located in the center of Dalmatia. The nearby headland provides a geographic and climatic divide between the North and South Adriatic.

The village of Rogoznica was built on an island in the early 16th Century. The Island is now connected to the mainland by a causeway and modern Rogoznica consists of the mainland section of Kopača and the islet of Kopara.

We anchored in a large bay called Podglavica, a quiet tourist resort on the east side of Rogoznica town.

It has a beach area with shallow crystal blue water. The houses along the waterfront are covered with colourful bougainvillea flowers.

There’s not too much else in the bay other than a couple of hotels and a supermarket so we were able to stock up on all of the essentials.

There was a strong wind from the north which was due to change direction towards the end of the week. As we planned to continue north we stayed in the anchorage for a few days waiting for it to change so we wouldn’t be beating into the wind.

We left Rogoznica with a good southwest wind and had a great sail north through the islands towards the River Krka.

We arrived at St Nicholas’ Fortress which stands guard at the entrance of St. Anthony’s Channel and motored up the channel through the steep-sided limestone hills and gorge.

We passed Sibernik town but did not stop and continued further inland up the Krka River.

There are numerous fish farms all along the river banks selling fresh mussels and oysters.

We went under the road bridge which is high over the river gorge to eventually arrive at a big lake, Prokljansko Jezero, (2.5 miles long and 1 mile wide). Although connected to the sea it has very low salinity, the deep levels do have some salt but the lake is mainly freshwater.

We anchored close to the shore in a small inlet next to the village of Rasline. There is only room here for a couple of boats and with one other already anchored when we arrived we just managed to squeeze in with a couple of meters to spare to the nearest fishing pot.

It was like being in the forest as you could hear all of the birds and crickets in the trees and bushes. There was also a lot of swans around nesting with their young.

Rasline is a farming and fishing village, as we walked around we saw a number of small holdings full of olive trees and vineyards. There were a few holiday homes dotted around but it is obviously well off the tourist path. In the little harbour there was still some small fishing boats being used by the locals around the lake.

The sunset was spectacular setting the sky on fire and giving a pink glow back over the lake!

On another note, we have been following the Olympics this week and pleased to see that the Nacra 17 training and practicing carried out in Marina di Ragusa earlier this year paid off. Congratulations to the Italian team, Ruggero Tita and Caterina Banti, for winning the gold medal and to the British team, John Gimson and Anna Burnet, for bringing home silver in the Nacra 17 Mixed Multihull Olympic Sailing Competition.

4 replies on “Up the River”

Lovely photos, and some equally fabulous places to visit. What a great place to do your training for the Olympics. I watched the medal race for the multi-hull and that’s how imagine you sailing ZigZag in full flight, Paul dangling off the side with only a thin wire and his wits keeping him out of the water 😉
Happy sailing.

Liked by 1 person

How ridiculous that someone would set your tender adrift!! You were so lucky to have spotted it and were able to rescue it with the help of a kinder soul. Another fantastic set of pictures. The photos really capture the serenity of the river and lake, and the sunset photo is absolutely stunning. The weather here has been mixed this week, with some glorious days but today is wet and windy.

Liked by 1 person

A case of “Local moorings for local people”, but at least they did not burn Ed and Fred!
Possibly the best sunset picture yet, and with grey skies here, it is great to get a dose of Friday sunshine from ZigZag.

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