Bright Lights of Malta

We had planned to only stay a couple of days in Sliema but with Ziggy safely tied to buoys it was very convenient, and we had friends there, so we ended up staying longer. We had a few jobs and repairs to attend to, it was difficult to get new boat parts in Tunisia so we had a long shopping list. Malta is a popular location for boats so you can get hold of almost anything, eventually.

With a good chandlery in the bay we started our search for parts there. We managed to tick most things off our list but there was still a few specific parts that we needed.

We took the bus and visited several other chandlery’s and hardware shops in the area. One chandlery was particularly interesting, we had a walk along a river and then found ourselves walking through a less scenic area, around some old docks and into an industrial estate.

It certainly wasn’t easy to find, we saw a sign but it seemed to direct us into the restricted area at the docks. We asked the security man there who sent us into a big warehouse/garage, thinking that we must be in the wrong place, at the back of the warehouse we came to an entrance into the chandlery, can’t imagine that they get much passing trade, they obviously do most of their business online!

It was very hot and after a few hours of shopping, we needed some refreshments. Seemed like a good time to visit an old brewery.

The Brewhouse has recently undergone a regeneration project to transform the 20th century, Grade II listed, Farsons Brewery industrial buildings. The internal and external fabric of the iconic building has been preserved and adapted into a mixed use development offering office space, conference facilities, a retail outlet and a gym. You can also have a tour of Farsons brewery which has been based at this location since 1950.

As we walked around, the internal ‘streets’ were all signposted leading you to the different bars and cafes and to rooms with traditional brewing machinery on display.

We went up to the top floor where there is a large beer garden on the roof terrace with views over the town, but it was too hot to sit outside.

We went back inside and visited the Chapel Bar, on display here is an original red mill from 1950 which was in operation until 2013.

Adjacent to this is their new in-house microbrewery which was installed in 2023, making unique craft beers. Paul was very happy to test them all.

Anyone who has visited Malta during the summer months will know that fireworks are big business. There are 35 firework factories scattered around the small island. You can hear fireworks being set off every day with loud bangs and puffs of smoke throughout the day and more colourful displays once the sun goes down. Each parish will decorate the streets and have firework displays to celebrate their own festivals throughout the summer. The villagers will not enjoy their feast without fireworks lighting up Malta’s night skies.

Fireworks in Malta have a long tradition which is centuries old. The craft of pyrotechnics goes back to the time of the Order of the Knights of St John. The Order used to fire canon shots (which were called pyrotechnics at the time) to celebrate the most important feasts. These would have included the arrival of a Knight, the arrival of a new born to an important family, the election of a new pope and the celebration of St. John’s feast, it seems any excuse was a good reason for a party!

There was a big festival planned in Sliema with fireworks being set off in the bay so all boats were told that they must leave for the weekend. We had been on the buoy for a while, there was already growth forming on the hull and the dinghy, so it was time for us to leave. We decided to head to Gozo as we haven’t visited before. We headed 20nm towards Dwejra bay on the west coast.

On our way between the islands we had a quick stop at the blue lagoon in Comino which looked lovely but was very busy so we continued on.

The landscape was very different than the built up areas around the towns and cities in Malta. We entered into Dwejra bay which is surrounded by cliffs, and with a huge rock partially covering the entrance it should be well protected from any swell…we hoped.

We were invited for sundown drinks on another boat in the bay and then had a very peaceful evening.

By midnight the swell started rolling into the bay, there was no wind and the waves were hitting our beam making us roll side to side like a pendulum. In the morning we decided enough was enough and we lifted the anchor to leave the bay. This was disappointing as there is an inland sea that you can reach by dingy through a cave. We will definitely have to revisit one day.

We continued east around the coast of Gozo to Ir Ramia, a bay with a red sand beach. When we arrived it was very busy but most people were just there for the day and by the evening there was only four boats left anchored in the bay and we enjoyed a calm night.

The wind was due to change around to the north which would make this bay uncomfortable so we lifted the anchor and set off again. We headed to the seaside town of Birżebbuġa in the Southern Region of Malta. We have been here before and knew we would have protection from a northerly wind, also Paul likes watching the comings and goings to the container ship terminal. It is now extremely hot with temperatures reaching the high 30’s even the sea is 30°C.

We stay a few days in Birżebbuġa preparing to check out and leave Malta.